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Tree Planting: Choosing a tree
Choosing a tree should be a well thought-out decision. Tree planting
can be a significant investment in money and time. Proper selection can
provide you with years of enjoyment as well as significantly increase
the value of your property. An inappropriate tree for your property can
be a constant maintenance problem or even a hazard. Before you buy,
take advantage of the abundant references on gardening at local
libraries, universities, arboretums, parks where trees are identified,
native plant and gardening clubs, and nurseries. Some questions to
consider in selecting a tree include:
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What purpose will this tree serve?
Trees can serve numerous landscape functions including beautification,
screening of sights and sounds, shade and energy conservation, and
wildlife habitat.
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Is the species appropriate for your area? Reliable nurseries will
not sell plant material that is not suitable for your area. However,
some mass marketers have trees and shrubs that are not winter hardy in
the area sold. Even if a tree is hardy, it may not flower consistently
from year to year at the limits of its useful range due to late spring
freezes. If you are buying a tree for the spring flowers and fall
fruits, this may be a consideration. In warmer climates, there may not
be a long enough period of cool temperatures for some species, such as
apples, to develop flowers. Apples and other species undergo
vernalization--a period of near-freezing temperatures that cause
changes in the plant, resulting in the production of flowers.
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Be aware of microclimates. Microclimates are very localized areas
where weather conditions may vary from the norm. A very sheltered yard
may support vegetation not normally adapted to the region. On the other
hand, a north-facing slope may be significantly cooler or windier than
surrounding areas and survival of normally adapted plants may be
limited.
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Select trees native to your area. They will be more tolerant of
local weather and soil conditions, enhance natural biodiversity in your
neighborhood, and be more beneficial to wildlife than many non-native
trees. Avoid exotic trees that can invade other areas, crowd out native
plants, and harm natural ecosystems.
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How big will it get? When
planting a small tree, it is often difficult to imagine that in 20
years it could be shading your entire yard. Unfortunately, many trees
are planted and later removed when the tree grows beyond the dimensions
of the property.
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What is the average life expectancy of the tree? Some
trees can live for hundreds of years. Others are considered
"short-lived" and may live for only 20 or 30 years. Many short-lived
trees tend to be smaller ornamental species. Short-lived species should
not necessarily be ruled out when considering plantings. They may have
other desirable characteristics, such as size, shape, tolerance of
shade, or fruit, that would be useful in the landscape. These species
may also fill a void in a young landscape, and can be removed as other
larger, longer-lived species mature.
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Does it have any particular ornamental value such
as leaf color or flowers and fruits? Some species provide beautiful
displays of color for short periods in the spring or fall. Other
species may have foliage that is reddish or variegated and can add
color in your landscaping year round.
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Trees bearing fruits or nuts
can provide an excellent source of food for many species of wildlife.
However, some people consider some fruit and nut bearing trees to be
"dirty."
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Does it have any particular insect, disease, or other problem that
may reduce its usefulness? Certain insects and diseases can be serious
problems on some desirable species in some regions. Depending on the
pest, control of the problem may be difficult and the pest may
significantly reduce the attractiveness, if not the life expectancy, of
the plant. Other species such as the silver maple (Acer saccharium) are
known to have weak wood that is susceptible to damage in ice storms or
heavy winds.
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How common is this species in your neighborhood or town? Some
species are over-planted. Increasing the natural diversity will provide
habitat for wildlife and help limit the opportunity for a single pest
to destroy all plantings. An excellent example of this was the American
elm (Ulmus americana). This lovely tree was widely planted throughout
the United States. With the introduction of Dutch elm disease,
thousands of communities lost all their street trees in only a few
years.
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Is the tree evergreen or deciduous? Evergreen
trees will provide cover and shade year round. They may also be more
effective as a barrier for wind and noise. Deciduous trees will give
you summer shade but allow the winter sun to shine in. This may be a
consideration for where to place the tree in your yard.
Placement of trees
Proper placement of trees is critical for your enjoyment and their
long-term survival. Check with local authorities about regulations
pertaining to placement of trees. Some communities have ordinances
restricting placement of trees within a specified distance of a street,
sidewalk, streetlight, or other utilities.
Before planting your tree, consider the tree's ultimate size. When the
tree nears maturity, will it be too near your house or other
structures? Be considerate of your neighbors. An evergreen tree planted
on your north side may block the winter sun from your next door
neighbor. Will it provide too much shade for your vegetable and flower
gardens? Most vegetables and many flowers require considerable amounts
of sun. If you intend to grow these plants, consider how the placement
of trees will affect these gardens. Will it obstruct driveways or
sidewalks? Will it cause problems for buried or overhead utilities?
Planting a tree
A properly planted and maintained tree will grow faster and live longer
than one that is incorrectly planted. Trees can be planted almost any
time of the year as long as the ground is not frozen. Late summer or
early fall is the optimum time to plant trees in many areas. This gives
the tree a chance to establish new roots before winter arrives and the
ground freezes. When spring arrives, the tree is ready to grow. The
second choice for planting is late winter or early spring. Planting in
hot summer weather should be avoided. Planting in frozen soil during
the winter is difficult and tough on tree roots. When the tree is
dormant and the ground is frozen, there is no opportunity for the
growth of new roots.
Trees are purchased as container grown, balled and burlapped (B&B),
and bare root. Generally, container grown are the easiest to plant and
successfully establish in any season, including summer. With container
grown stock, the plant has been growing in a container for a period of
time. When planting container grown plants, little damage is done to
the roots as the plant is transferred to the soil. Container grown
trees range in size from very small plants in gallon pots up to large
trees in huge pots. B&B plants frequently have been dug from a
nursery, wrapped in burlap, and kept in the nursery for an additional
period of time, giving the roots opportunity to regenerate. B&B
plants can be quite large. Bare root trees are usually extremely small
plants. Because there is no soil on the roots, they must be planted
when they are dormant to avoid drying out. The roots must be kept moist
until planted. Frequently, bare root trees are offered by seed and
nursery mail order catalogs or in the wholesale trade. Many state
operated nurseries and local conservation districts also sell bare root
stock in bulk quantities for only a few cents per plant. Bare root
plants usually are offered in the early spring and should be planted as
soon as possible upon arrival.
Carefully follow the planting
instructions that come with your tree. If specific instructions are not
available, follow these tips
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BEFORE DIGGING: call your local utilities to identify the location of any underground utilities.
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Dig a hole twice as wide as, and slightly shallower than, the root ball. Roughen the sides and bottom of the hole with a pick or shovel so that roots can penetrate the soil.
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With a potted tree: Gently
remove the tree from the container. Lay the tree on its side with the
container end near the planting hole. Hit the bottom and sides of the
container until the root ball is loosened. If roots are growing in a
circular pattern around the root ball, slice through the roots on a
couple of sides of the root ball. With trees wrapped in burlap, remove
the string or wire that holds the burlap to the root crown. It is
unnecessary to completely remove the burlap. Plastic wraps must be
completely removed. Gently separate circling roots on the root ball.
Shorten exceptionally long roots, and guide the shortened roots
downward and outward. Root tips die quickly when exposed to light and
air, so don't waste time.
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Place the root ball in the hole. Leave
the top of the root ball (where the roots end and the trunk begins) 1/2
to 1 inch above the surrounding soil, making sure not to cover it
unless roots are exposed. For bare root plants, make a mound of soil in
the middle of the hole and spread plant roots out evenly over mound. Do
not set trees too deep. As you add soil to fill in around the tree,
lightly tamp the soil to collapse air pockets, or add water to help
settle the soil. Form a temporary water basin around the base of the
tree to encourage water penetration, and water thoroughly after
planting. A tree with a dry root ball cannot absorb water; if the root
ball is extremely dry, allow water to trickle into the soil by placing
the hose at the trunk of the tree.
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Mulch around the tree. A 3-foot diameter circle of mulch is common.
Depending on the size of the tree and the site conditions, staking may
be beneficial. Staking supports the tree until the roots are well
established to properly anchor it. Staking should allow for some
movement of the tree. After trees are established, remove all support
wires. If these are not removed they can girdle the tree, cutting into
the trunk and eventually killing the tree.
Maintenance
For the first year or two, especially after a week or so of especially
hot or dry weather, watch your trees closely for signs of moisture
stress. If you see leaf wilting or hard, caked soil, water the trees
well and slowly enough to allow the water to soak in. This will
encourage deep root growth. Keep the area under the trees mulched.
Some species of evergreen trees may need protection against winter sun
and wind. A thorough watering in the fall before the ground freezes is
recommended. Spray solutions are available to help prevent drying of
foliage during the winter.
Fertilization is usually not needed for newly planted trees. Depending
on soil and growing conditions, fertilizer may be beneficial at a later
time.
Young trees need protection against rodents, frost cracks, sunscald,
and lawn mowers and weed whackers. Mice and rabbits frequently girdle
small trees by chewing away the bark at snow level. Since the tissues
that transport nutrients in the tree are located just under the bark, a
girdled tree often dies in the spring when growth resumes. Weed
whackers are also a common cause of girdling. Plastic guards are an
inexpensive and easy control method. Frost cracking is caused by the
sunny side of the tree expanding at a different rate than the colder
shaded side. This can cause large splits in the trunk. Sunscald can
occur when a young tree is suddenly moved from a shady spot into direct
sun. Light colored tree wraps can be used to protect the trunk from
sunscald.
Pruning
Usually, pruning is not needed on newly planted trees. As the tree
grows, lower branches may be pruned to provide clearance above the
ground, or to remove dead or damaged limbs or suckers that sprout from
the trunk. Sometimes larger trees need pruning to allow more light to
enter the canopy. Small branches can be removed easily with pruners.
Large branches should be removed with a pruning saw. All cuts should be
vertical. This will allow the tree to heal quickly without the use of
sealants. Major pruning should be done in late winter or early spring.
At this time the tree is more likely to "bleed" as sap is rising
through the plant. This is actually healthy and will help prevent
invasion by many disease organisms. Heavy pruning in the late summer or
fall may reduce the tree's winter hardiness. Removal of large branches
can be hazardous. If in doubt about your ability to prune properly,
contact a professional with the proper equipment.
Under no circumstance should trees be topped. Not only does this
practice ruin the natural shape of the tree, but it increases
susceptibility to diseases and results in very narrow crotch angles,
the angle between the trunk and the side branch. Narrow crotch angles
are weaker than wide ones and more susceptible to damage from wind and
ice. If a large tree requires major reduction in height or size,
contact a professionally trained arborist. There are other methods to
selectively remove large branches without sacrificing the health or
beauty of the tree.
On the farm
Windbreaks and tree plantings slow the wind and provide shelter and
food for wildlife. Trees can shelter livestock and crops; they are used
as barriers to slow winds that blow across large cropped fields and
through farmsteads. Windbreaks can be beneficial in reducing blowing
and drifting snow along roadways. Farmstead and field windbreaks and
tree plantings are key components of a conservation system. They also
help prevent dust particles from adding to smog over urban areas.
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