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Water Conservation: Save water with efficient systems
Wise use of water for garden and lawn waterings not only helps protect
the environment, but saves money and provides for optimum growing
conditions. Simple ways of reducing the amount of water used for
irrigation include growing xeriphytic species (plants that are adapted
to dry conditions), mulching, adding water retaining organic matter to
the soil, and installing windbreaks and fences to slow winds and reduce
evapotranspiration.
Watering in the early morning before the sun is intense helps reduce
the water lost from evaporation. Installing rain gutters and collecting
water from downspouts also helps reduce water use.
Plant needs for water
Water is a critical component of photosynthesis, the process by which
plants manufacture their own food from carbon dioxide and water in the
presence of light. Water is one of the many factors that can limit
plant growth. Other important factors include nutrients, temperature,
and amount and duration light.
Plants take in carbon dioxide through their stomata--microscopic
openings on the undersides of leaves. Water is also lost through the
stomata in the process called transpiration. Transpiration, along with
evaporation from the soil surface, accounts for the moisture lost from
the soil.
When there is a lack of water in the plant tissue, the stomata close to
try to limit water loss. Wilting occurs when the tissues lose too much
water. Plants adapted to dry conditions have developed numerous
mechanisms for reducing water loss, including narrow leaves, hairy
leaves, and thick fleshy stems and leaves. Pines, hemlocks, and
junipers are also well adapted to survive extended periods of dry
conditions which they encounter each winter when the frozen soil
prevents the uptake of water. Cacti, with leaves reduced to spines and
having thick stems, are the best example of plants well adapted to
extremely dry environments.
Choosing plants for low water use
You are not limited to cacti, succulents, or narrow leafed evergreens
when selecting plants adapted to low moisture requirements. Many plants
growing in humid environments are well adapted to low levels of soil
moisture. Numerous plants found growing in coastal or mountainous
regions have developed mechanisms for dealing with extremely sandy,
excessively well-drained soils, or rocky cold soils in which moisture
is limited for months at a time.
Plants adapted to sunny, dry conditions:
- Yucca gloriosa
- Broom (Cytisus spp.)
- Yarrow (Achillea spp.)
- Nasturtium (Tropaeolum majus)
- California poppy (Eschscholzia californica)
- Blanket flower (Gailardia spp.)
- Sedum spp.
- Gold dust (Alyssum saxatile)
- Moss rose (Portulaca grandiflora)
- Juniper (Juniperus spp.)
- Artemisia spp.
- Lavender (Lavendula spp.)
- Sage (Salvia spp.)
- Iris spp.
- Thyme spp.
- Crocus spp.
- Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis)
Indigenous plants: plants that occur naturally in the local
environment--will likely need less supplemental moisture most years
than non-native species. These species have evolved under the local
conditions and usually have well-developed mechanisms for surviving
extremes in the weather.
Efficient watering methods
Trickle irrigation and drip irrigation systems help reduce water use
and meet the needs of plants. With these methods, very small amounts of
water are supplied to the base of the plants. Since the water is
applied directly to the soil, rather than onto the plant, evaporation
from leaf surfaces is reduced. The water is also placed where it will
do the most good, rather than sprayed over the entire garden.
Installing irrigation systems
An irrigation system can be easy to install. Numerous products are
readily available for home use. The simplest system consists of a
soaker hose that is laid out around the plants and connected to an
outdoor spigot. No installation is required and the hose can be moved
as needed to water the entire garden. A slightly more sophisticated
system is a slotted pipe system.
Slotted pipe system installation
Sketch the layout you will need. If you intend to water a vegetable
garden, you may want one pipe next to every row or one pipe between
every two rows.
Depending on your layout, purchase the required lengths of pipe. You
will need a length of solid pipe the width of your garden. You will
need lengths of perforated pipe the length of your rows (the laterals)
times the number of rows.
Measure the distances between laterals and cut the solid pipe to the proper lengths.
Place t-connectors between the pieces of solid pipe.
Approximately in the center of the solid pipe, place a t-connector to which a hose connector will be fitted.
Cut perforated pipe to the length of the rows.
Attach perforated pipe to the t-connectors. Attach so that the perforations are facing downward. Cap the end of the pipe.
Connect garden hose to hose connector on solid pipe. Adjust water from
the spigot until water slowly emerges from each of the laterals.
Drip or trickle irrigation
The basic elements of a drip or trickle system consist of the head, the tubing, and the emitters.
The head is the part of the system that connects to your water supply.
The major components of this may include a pressure regulator, a
filter, an anti-siphon valve, and an automatic timer. While this may
sound complicated and expensive, it is not. Installation of these
components will create a better operating system.
Consideration for the head
Many drip systems are designed to be used with low water pressure,
under 25 pounds per square inch (psi). Normal city water pressure is
about 55 psi. Therefore, a pressure regulator should be installed.
Because of the small size of the openings in the emitters, they easily
can become clogged by sediment in the water. A filter should be
installed to keep openers operating freely.
Consider installing a back flow preventer. This is a valve that
prevents the accidental backflow of water in the system getting into
the water line. This may be required by city ordinance in some
municipalities. Considering the minor cost, it is probably a wise
investment for anyone considering a system.
A timing device can be added to automatically turn the system on and
off. This can be as simple as a battery operated attachment or a more
permanent timer that is wired into your electrical system.
Plastic tubing is used to get the water from the source to the garden.
This comes in many sizes. A variety of fittings are available to go
around corners and to connect pieces.
Plastic tubing considerations
Check with the supplier for the maximum length of tubing that can be
run in any one direction. A general recommendation is that 400 feet is
the maximum for 1/2 inch tubing.
Consider what you intend to water with the drip system. You may need
several different systems to best meet the needs of various plants. Not
all plants have the same water requirements, and soil conditions in
various parts of your yard may vary. Trees, because of their large size
and deep root systems, probably will require less frequent but longer
waterings. Well mulched vegetable gardens high in organic matter or
shady flower gardens probably will require shorter watering times than
gardens with sandy soils or those in full sun.
Emitters deliver the small amounts of water to the plants. Depending on
the design, emitters can either be attached directly to the pipe or
attached to "spaghetti tube," a very small flexible tube that can be
placed next to plants or in pots. Emitters can let water drip out very
slowly, or small sprinkler emitters can be installed to provide a spray
pattern similar to a lawn sprinkler. Sprinkler emitters may be
appropriate for watering groundcover and lawns.
The size of the emitter will influence the amount of water delivered.
Drippers vary in the amount of water delivered per hour. Some deliver
as little as one half gallon of water per hour while others deliver up
to 10 gallons per hour. Some emitters are adjustable to deliver
different rates of water. Sprinkler emitters also are available in
various flow rates as well as with different spray patterns and
coverage areas.
While these systems need more planning, they are neither expensive or
difficult to install. In most cases, no special tools or skills are
needed. Plastic pipe is punched with an inexpensive tube punch that
assures the proper hole size. Emitters or spaghetti tubes snap into the
hole. No gluing or soldering is required. Because the holes are small,
they can easily be plugged if you put one in the wrong place. Some
systems come with pre-assembled emitters at regular intervals. Drip
systems require periodic maintenance. You will also need to check
emitters to make sure they are working properly as they can become
clogged.
Once you have thought about your watering needs, discuss your ideas
with a supplier. Most trickle irrigation suppliers will help you design
a system to best meet your gardening needs.
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