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Flush Tank Maintenance and Repairs
Tank continues to run after tank fills
- Tank doesn't fill but water continues to run
- Tank partly empties
- Water leaks on the floor
- Nothing happens when you push the flush handle
No water pressure available
The problem is the water
inlet valve is not seating tight enough to shut the water off. To
isolate the problem, remove the tank lid. Grab the float and lift:
a. If the water stops
running the problem is in the float mechanism. If the float is over
half submerged look for a leak in the float. Check the float and repair
or replace.
If the float is okay, adjust the float downward.
This can be done by:
a adjustment screw on top of the ball cock.
b. bending the rod
supporting the float. The recommended water level is often marked on
the tank wall. If not, the water level should be about 1" below the
overflow pipe.
If you cannot stop the water flow by raising the float,
the problem is probably the inlet valve in the ball cock.
- Shut off the water
to the tank by turning the valve below the tank or by closing the valve in the main supply to the house.
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Remove the float assembly by
unscrewing two thumb screws. This will allow you to lift the valve. In
other ball cocks, unscrew the two thumb screws on either side of the
top assembly and lift it off. The valve assembly should drop out.
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Replace the rubber washer
in
the bottom of the valve. If you do not have a new washer turn the old
one over as a temporary repair until you can get a new replacement.
Check the size before you reassemble.
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Check the gasket or "O" ring
toward the top of the valve. This should be pliable so it will prevent
the incoming water from squirting out around the top of the valve.
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Reassemble the valve and turn on the water.
Procedure if tank doesn't fill but water continues to run.
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The problem is most likely that the tank ball is not seating. Check
to see if the linkage is binding or hooked so it does not let the ball
go completely down. Or the tank ball might be so old it is wrinkled or
cracked so water is running through the tank ball.
- The solution is to buy a new rubber tank ball and/or
a new linkage and replace the old worn parts. You might consider
replacing the entire tank ball and linkage with a flapper valve.
- Due to use, water, and salt deposits, the flush handle might bind
and not let the tank ball reseat. Put a few drops of penetrating oil on
the handle just inside the tank and wiggle it back and forth. If the
handle is rusted so bad it cannot be loosened with the oil a new one
will have to be installed. To do this, remove the nut inside the tank.
This is usually left hand thread so to loosen you would turn clockwise.
Procedure if water leaks on the floor.
Water on the floor underneath the toilet tank may be caused by one of the following:
Condensation on the outside of the
tank due to cold temperature of the water. This will almost always
happen in the summer, when the temperature and humidity are high. In the winter it will not occur.
- Buy or sew a jacket for the outside of the tank which acts as an insulator. Wash it frequently, to keep it clean.
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Kits of insulation material
can be purchased to install on the inside of the tank. These require
considerable effort because the inside of the tank must be dry and
clean. The insulation must be installed so water cannot seep between
the insulation and the tank wall.
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A valve can be purchased which will proportion a fixed amount of hot and cold water
into the tank to make the water temperature high enough to prevent
condensation. This requires an alteration to the plumbing system but is
very effective. It will "waste" heated water.
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Buy a tray which hangs under the tank,
usually hooked to the top of the tank with thin metal strips. Put
sponges on the tray to soak up the water dripping on to the tray.
A leak in the water pipe to the tank.
The water leaking from this source will usually be in a puddle under
the end of the tank where the water pipe connects to the tank. Look
under the tank and see if there is an accumulation of salts around the
pipe.
Often times a one quarter or one half turn on the nut next
to bottom of the tank or on either side of the shut-off valve (if there
is one) will stop the leak. If tightening the nut does not stop the
leak it is probably the gasket at the bottom of the "ball cock"
where it goes through the tank. To do this, disconnect the water pipe to the ball
cock
after dipping out water. Loosen the big retainer nut under the tank and
remove the "ball cock" assemble. Replace the rubber gasket and
reassemble the unit.
The refill tube may be misdirected
so it directs the water against the top or side of the overflow pipe
causing it to splash against the top of the tank and running down the
outside of the tank. If this happens when you take the top off,
readjust to direct water down the filler tube.
The packing or "O" ring on the inlet valve may be worn
so when the toilet is flushed and the valve is opened the water squirts
out the top of the "ball cock" against the tank top and runs down the
outside of the tank.
The procedure for replacing this packing is the same as for replacing the valve seat.
Procedure when tank partly empties:
Sometimes when you pull the flush lever the tank partly empties or the
handle must be held down to completely flush the toilet.
Check to see if the mechanism or chain connected to the rubber tank ball is free
and not kinked. If so, adjust the length so the rubber tank ball is
lifted higher when the flush valve is released. This will allow more
time for water to enter the stool.
Procedure if nothing
happens when flush handle is pushed
After many years of use the
linkage between the handle and the float wears out and becomes
disconnected.
Remove the tank top and find out which part is worn out.
Replace it with a new part which can be purchased at most stores
selling plumbing supplies. Temporary repairs can be made with a wire or
cord if a new part cannot be obtained for several days.
Procedure if there is no water pressure:
When the water pressure is gone the flush tank will not fill for the next flush. All
that is needed to flush the tank is a big rush of water in the stool so
a pail of water dumped into the stool will flush it. Then part of a
pail of water must be poured in for the next use.
Installing A Ball Cock
When installing a new ball cock, make
sure it is an anti-syphon ball cock to meet code requirements. This
type of ball cock guards against contamination of the fresh water
supply.
New types of ball cocks:
Diaphragm ball cock
- Install the ball cock in the same way as conventional models. Follow the directions that come with your ball cock.
- If the water supply
contains a high level of minerals, the moving-parts of a diaphragm ball
cock should be occasionally cleaned.
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After several years of
use, the diaphragm and valve may need to be replaced. These parts are
available as a kit from a plumbing-supply store.
Float-cup ball cock
- To install the float-cup
ball cock just follow the procedure for a conventional ball cock. The
float ball and arm are eliminated on this ball cock.
- An adjustable sliding clip permits setting of tank water level.
Anne Field, Extension Specialist
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